Hike to Vajskovský Waterfall
The weekend is approaching, and the forecast promises sunny weather with no storms. In other words, ideal conditions for hiking and for escaping the summer temperatures in the thirties. This time I have several trip ideas, but as I am falling asleep, the final decision is made: Vajskovský Waterfall. I want to finish exploring this part of the Low Tatras. I have already visited Vajskovská Skalka, although that certainly does not mean it was my last time there. This time, however, I am heading lower, into the valley, in search of water, forest and silence. In the morning, I set off at 7:00 by bus, changing in Brezno. The motorised part of my trip ends at around 8:45 in Krupová. Six of us get off the bus: five blueberry pickers, who soon disappear somewhere into the forest ... and me.
From Krupová to Kosodrevina
The first half-hour on the way to Kosodrevina passes quickly. Before long, I am standing at a junction and choose the blue-marked trail towards Príslop saddle. From this point on, I have no company, and that remains the case for quite some time. The first few metres are very pleasant. The path follows the contour line and offers lovely views of the slopes of Chopok, Dereše and Baba. I reach Drevenica pod Derešmi, where there is another junction, in just under 45 minutes. Here I leave the blue trail and continue along the yellow one.
Following the yellow trail into a quieter part of the mountains
The yellow-marked trail begins with a descent through dense woodland. The atmosphere feels noticeably wilder, and at times I have the impression that a highwayman could easily appear from behind the trees. I therefore cover this section at a brisker pace. Next comes a short but less clearly defined stretch beside a lively stream. The path is overgrown with lush vegetation here, so I have to pay close attention to its exact course. Once I overcome this obstacle too, a pleasant path takes me all the way to the junction before Pálenice. A two-pronged wooden signpost with a plaque is impossible to miss; it clearly indicates that this is where I need to turn towards the waterfall. I follow its direction and begin a gentle climb towards my planned destination.
To the waterfall
This part of the route has an exceptional atmosphere. It is exactly the kind of mountain romance that makes a detour from the main path worthwhile. Among the burdock leaves, I discover an old wooden hut that looks as though its best years are long behind it. Judging by its condition, I tell myself it may no longer be here next year, so I immediately photograph my little discovery. It could easily serve as a film set. After about an hour, I hear the rushing sound of the waterfall. That is a good sign; I am going the right way. Before I reach it, I spot an adder basking on a rock and startle an animal peering out from behind the brushwood. Perhaps a fox, perhaps something else. Today simply has an air of wilderness about it. Vajskovský Waterfall is powerful and loud enough to command all my attention immediately. I stay beside it for a while, taking in the force of the water and the chill in the air. When I hear more hikers approaching, I make room and slowly begin my return journey.
Through Pálenice to Črmné
I thoroughly enjoy the path back to Pálenice. The nature here feels pristine, peaceful and untouched. Beyond Pálenice, the character of the route gradually changes. The forest path gives way to an asphalt road that would also be ideal for cycling. It seems someone has interpreted it in exactly that way. Beside the road, I pass a bicycle tied up with no owner in sight. Its owner has probably treated themselves to a mountain duathlon: part of the route by bicycle and part on foot. It will still take a good two hours before I reach my final bus stop in Črmné. A loud mountain stream keeps me company, rushing so intensely that I cannot even hear myself speak. I therefore switch to an inner monologue. As I still have plenty of time, I make a detour to the memorial to avalanche victims before finishing the hike. It is about 20 minutes from the main road. The place feels quiet, solemn and slightly oppressive. Looking at the memorial, I realise that nature always wins and that humans are very small beside it. I do not linger. The dark forest all around fills me with respect, so I prefer to head back.
A small final mistake
I spend the last few minutes before the bus is due sitting near the memorial in Črmné. And that is a mistake. This is not, in fact, the bus stop. The stop is another 300 metres or so to the right, as the local bus driver points out when I board. Fortunately, he is very kind and takes pity on a lone hiker desperately signalling for him to stop. At that moment, only one thought crosses my mind: typical me. Fortunately, I am on the bus. In Podbrezová, I change to the service home and can finally breathe a sigh of relief. The trip to Vajskovský Waterfall was different from hikes along the ridges. There were no steep climbs, but it was full of silence, water, greenery and untouched nature. It was a day with a gentler pace yet a powerful atmosphere—exactly the kind of day one occasionally needs to give oneself in the mountains.