Holiday Info

The journey begins on a beautiful Monday in August at the Lúčky bus stop in Demänovská Dolina. My destination is clear: Trangoška. The time limit is clear too: complete the route within five hours.

A few minutes after seven in the morning, the local bus from Liptovský Mikuláš brings me to my planned starting point. From there, I set off through Široká dolina, which I already know, although from the opposite direction, coming from Čertovica.

At the beginning, I follow the asphalt road past the Lúčky chairlift and continue to a junction. The signs point either towards Javorie saddle, across an iron footbridge over a rushing stream, or into Široká dolina.

The start looks promising. Everything is going according to schedule, warm air is blowing through the valley and the sun is shining pleasantly. An ideal beginning to the hike.

When the orange arrow is not for heavy machinery

The first minor problem comes at a turn marked by an orange arrow sprayed on a rock. Naturally, I initially assume that it is a sign for the local heavy machinery used here to deal with storm-damaged or felled timber.

So I continue along the route that seems more likely, following a gravel road uphill across a second wooden bridge. I think to myself: surely they did not build it only for logging.

Fortunately, I realise my mistake after about ten minutes. I do not remember Siná being on my left during my previous journey down from above. The reflective orange arrow on the rock was intended for hikers after all.

The mobile app, which I need for the first time during my three-day hike, naturally fails. This particular route is not in it. The paper map wins again. In the mountains, technology should never be trusted without reservation.

Before long, everything is back on track and I continue climbing cheerfully.

Through Široká dolina

I reach a junction where the signpost also offers the option of continuing via Pekná vyhliadka to Luková and Tri vody along the red trail. That option would make sense if I wanted to extend the trip to about eight hours.

I resist the temptation and continue uphill along a forest road between massive spruce trees.

The forest gradually opens up and the trail turns into a beautiful valley. Tanečnica borders it on the left, the Chopok massif on the right, and large stones increasingly form a natural mountain path beneath my feet.

There is peace and quiet everywhere. Simply a fairy tale.

After about an hour and fifteen minutes, I reach the highest part of the route. My pace is reasonable: brisk walking in places, a short run in others and, of course, stops to take photographs.

Chamois in the morning sun

A pleasant surprise awaits me at the top. A herd of chamois is enjoying the morning sun and apparently breakfast too, just like me.

Meanwhile, the wind strengthens, which is nothing unusual in this part of the Low Tatras. Apart from that, however, the weather is exceptionally favourable. Visibility is excellent and the whole day feels as though the mountains have decided to cooperate with me this time.

At Krúpovo sedlo, I turn towards Ďumbier.

The ascent was not originally part of the plan, but because I want to catch the bus, I switch into fast mode. I practically run up Ďumbier. Seventeen minutes later I am standing at the top, quickly taking in the view of the entire Tatra massif.

The air is so clear that I can also see Veľký Choč and, in the background, Kubínska hoľa. There are only three hikers at the summit, so instead of crowds I enjoy an almost empty Ďumbier. One more chamois keeps me company, looking at me with complete indifference (photo in the gallery).

From Ďumbier to Štefánička

The journey from Ďumbier to the M. R. Štefánik mountain hut takes me about an hour and fifteen minutes. Only here do I finally take a short break of around ten minutes. I quickly bite into a bread roll while enjoying the views.

Before the steep descent to Trangoška, I also stop at the memorial to Zolo Palugyay. The plaque tells me that this important Slovak painter died here tragically. The place feels quiet and dignified, although the hut itself is the exact opposite.

There is a lively bustle around the M. R. Štefánik mountain hut. There are many hikers, and the peaceful hike suddenly turns into a smaller version of Wenceslas Square.

Descent to Trangoška

On the way down, I watch hikers carrying logs to the hut. One log earns a free tea, and I have to admit that, had I been walking in the opposite direction, I would have taken two straight away.

A less pleasant sight is the berry pickers diligently combing blueberries in the national park. It looks more like preparation for a roadside sale than gathering a few berries by hand. In such surroundings, it is disappointing to see.

I arrive at the bus stop below Srdiečko with twenty minutes to spare. The schedule has worked out.

The bus journey to Banská Bystrica takes about two hours. The bus is hot and quite crowded, so it is not exactly the most comfortable transfer. On the other hand, the services run on time, connect with one another, and in the end you are simply grateful that such a way of getting back is available at all.

The trip through Široká dolina to Ďumbier and onwards to Trangoška was full of beautiful views and turned an ordinary day into a rather exceptional one.